Wednesday, June 17, 2020

'This wave will humble you'

For the first time in hstory, a woman has surfed The Right and survived it.
Photo by Chris Gurney
Most locals around here know about this wave but for those Of Other Places, The Right is a legendary wave and one of the biggest, lumpiest and nastiest wavesi n the world. It only really works when the swell gets to eight metres and is just down the road from where I live. 

Immediately after, or even during a big storm, four wheel drives towing jet skis start arriving in town. When I worked at the coffee shop, foreign big wave surfers would come in early for a coffee and then reappear in the late afternoon looking dazed and hungry. I've spoken to some old timers at the pub who used to paddle out to this wave but these days they are tow-ins. They are invariably young men who fly in from all over the place when The Right is working.

Now, there's Gracetown's Laura Macauley.

Photo by Anthony Pancie
 Here's a link to some video of Laura surfing The Right thanks to the ABC.
https://www.abc.net.au/news/2020-06-17/laura-macaulay-first-woman-surf-the-right-wa-margaret-river/12335856 

And here's some more footage of The Right:

6 comments:

  1. Wow. Hadn't heard of this girl. Amazing. That thing scares the crap out of me just watching it on video!

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    1. I think ABC dropped it this morning, but I heard about it after that last storm when one of my UWA colleagues (who is in the vid) talked up the event at a meeting recently.

      The 'Mother' vid is insane yes? I think that brand is competing with Red Bull, which annually awards a big wave surfer for the biggest wave in the world. In 2015 it went to a guy who surfed The Right. Since then, The Right's profile has gone from being a closely guarded secret to a global big wave surfers' (and photographers) bucket list.

      Meanwhile, us muggles search the beach nearby for go-pros, jet skis, nautilus shells and drones after a storm.

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