Good morning ... and now I shall present A WineDark Sea's inaugural GUEST POST.
I am throwing opening the publish button (but not the password, heh) to my blog for the WineDark month of May, because
a) sometimes I am lazy
b) the pointy, bastardy and bloodied end of my PhD means I run out of juice here occasionally and
c) sometimes I am lazy.
Oh okay, one more thing, d) I really want to share some south coast yarns other than my own on the blog. So ... Michelle, Boy Wonder, Nemo, Anne, Crispin, Ciaran, Rellie, Kyabla and others, bloggers or not, if you would like to share a story, a painting, a photograph, a rant or a poem on A WineDark Sea during May, I'd just love you to join in. Go on.
The first guest poster is Tim from the Pole. That's Walpole for the uninitiated: a wild little town nestled between ocean and tall timber. Tim is a field biologist who manages the fragile equilibrium between life and style in one of the most beautiful places in the world.
Fire away Tim!
I’m not a local. I wasn’t born here. A number of years ago when
we moved south I was teased by locals who said “you won’t survive the Walpole
winter, you’ll be gone within two years if not sooner”. On the contrary, it’s
the winter, not the summer that keeps us here.
In fact I’ve now been here longer than anywhere else I’ve lived as an
adult and the gypsy urge has been suppressed by the south coast.
Aaahh…..bliss, a cold front blowing up from the Southern Ocean on a
Sunday afternoon in June. The sort of weather that sends tourists packing and
locals strolling off to the wood shed or pub.
Some ‘south coasters’ do the opposite. Invigorated by both the weather
and the solitude that winter brings, we go to the beach. The air has that clean sharpness that may
bring hail. Maybe some bruised vegies and another power cut will result but there
are plenty of candles so it’s a small price to pay. The holiday homes that
surround us have been vacated so we can hear frogs, owls, mooing and the
distant rumble of a big swell.
It’s rough, bleak and splendid as I stand high above one of my favourite
nameless wild south coast beaches watching the weather unfurl, Windy Harbour fuzzy
on the horizon. A mate and I had our weekly fish here recently. My wife likes
to call it “Tuesdays with Gary”. We saw
an elephant seal. He popped up his massive grey head with black bulbous eyes
from behind a dune and bellowed at us. We were startled to say the least and giggling
tried to hide our fright, but we also felt truly privileged. It was a David
Attenborough moment. We both stared at it for some time mesmerized and speculated
in silence about what this animal has seen in its sub-Antarctic life. Diving deep in dark, cold
waters for an hour at a time hunting for squid, rays even small sharks.
It’s
the rips and king waves however that makes it dicey on this beach, not the
fauna. I need that alone
time and on a day like this where else would you want to be? Somewhere outdoors
but not walking under the karri in this wind. Some would say that’s nutty. You
should be in front of the fire with a red wine and a good book, maybe Facebook,
maybe a milo. Well perhaps later.
I think one of the
attractions of the south coast is that looking out to sea you know there are no
people. Perhaps not at all till Antarctica except for maybe a crew on a distant
ship beyond the horizon. You’re on the edge of the abyss. If there are no boats
or swimmers, there are no people, simple. That seems evident, but where you have land,
even in the most isolated and secluded mountains, deserts or forests, people
often turn up. I’ve experienced this working in the bush as a field zoologist. Someone
will surprise you by appearing in harsh and isolated areas, when you were
convinced of your solitude. Many people find a remote and unoccupied beach, especially
in squally weather, a forbidding place.
I see it as a chance to watch the
kids rugged up, or more often not, bounding along the beach, all shrieks and
cartwheels. They’re stamping the first footprints into the sand after all the
holiday visitor’s trails have been smothered and washed away. It’s like we’ve
discovered a new beach, a clean slate. The kids return beaming, one with a
petrel skull the other dragging a netted buoy.
I’m not sure when I developed
the small coastal town attitude about space and privacy on the coast or when a
visitor’s presence began to diminish the experience. Now a special spot is
‘ruined’ because someone else is there. Crumbs! What have I become? In an overpopulated world, this is a selfish
attitude and we’re all quite spoilt down here. I also realise that the elephant
in the room is that I’m as guilty as anyone else of having my presence on the beach
affecting someone else’s desire for isolation. This desire to be the first to
the beach may sound like competition but it’s more than that.
It’s not just about
getting to the deep water hole for a fish before anyone else snaffles it or discovering
the lone nautilus shell, but about immersing yourself in the landscape with
spontaneity, unhindered by people.
It’s deciding to follow meandering plover
tracks from the shoreline to the dunes, to see if you can find that exposed and
elusive camouflaged egg without walking over someone’s towel or through their
fishing line.
It’s seeing the dark glint of a fossilised shark tooth in the sand
while trying to ignore the flash of a smashed stubby.
It’s about finding that
dried seahorse, tail tangled in seaweed, nestled up to a tiny leather jacket
with a background of kelp, sponge and blue bottles like a miniature museum diorama
or a seafood salad.
It’s noticing the succession of beached and bleached cuttlefish
bones. Some standing half buried in the sand like self-made headstones. It’s then
puzzling over the tell-tale imprints of the mystery toothy predator that ended
its life. The ragged slashes of an unknown shark, the conical holes left by
large fish, dolphins and seals, with only size and pattern left to tell them
apart.
It’s picking over the frame of a grouper, peg-teeth gaping at the
darkening sky and wondering how old it is. A fish that could have been swimming
out there since the 1950’s. These seemingly fragile relics must be tough because
the only way onto this particular beach is via a gauntlet of immense, top heavy
and dumping waves. Hence the absence of surfers.
Although I despise it, even the rubbish washed
up here is curious. A half-drunk bottle of plum wine from Japan, a tube of “Lucky”
cigarettes from China and a carton of chocolate milk from Saudi Arabia. There’s
a long piece of barnacle encrusted bamboo as thick as your leg with saw marks
on it – I wonder from where it's drifted. This marine debris is a reminder that
the ocean connects us.
A post-gale stroll is the
winters highlight. It permits for a slightly macabre exploration of sea life that
regularly succumbs to the violence of the weather, such as a dead seal pup or stranded
whale. It allows for ‘poking with stick proximity’. A chance to be familiar
with wild animals usually hidden or distant. A wreck of shearwaters. Aptly
named as the lifeless birds do look like a fleet of little weather beaten
boats, lying miserably in the sand. Some
with wings blown upright, flapping in the gusts like torn sails. The point is,
these quiet, often lone and isolated walks shake you out of your routine, clear
the head and enliven. This experience for me is diluted when there are visitors
prancing around.
What is the solution to a
desire for solitude in wild coastal places? Either move away somewhere even
more remote, or adapt, share and embrace others in these places. Basically just
get over it. I can’t do the former with a young family so I’m accepting the
latter.
In fact this week, as per last, I’m taking a bunch of school kids out
to a remote beach with Gary Muir, a renowned local educator, to find tracks, scats
and other signs of native animals on the beach as part of their science
curriculum. It’s anything but solitude, it’s a cacophony of excited chatter and
squealing but a step toward triggering a possible life time of ecological interest
for young minds, and it’s rewarding. They loved the dead seal.
Perhaps I’ve
turned the corner. I’m even stopping to chat to beach combing and fishing
tourists. I don’t give away secrets but at least I offer advice on what fish
are moving or good fossicking spots, in the hope that sharing a passion for the
south coast will engender respect in them for the landscape.
One day I might even look forward to summer.
Tim Gamblin